The
Food
culinary
treasures
BY HANAN SAYED WORELL
The culinary sphere of Abu Dhabi has expanded incredibly. In the early 1960s, inhabitants of the sparsely populated fishing village existed on seafood, dates, goat milk yogurt, and some imported foodstuffs, such as rice. Once oil production began, more imported items arrived, but the selection was limited. The expatriates who came to Abu Dhabi in the mid-twentieth century brought their recipes from home but often found themselves in a cooking experiment when they had to substitute original ingredients with what was locally available. For Emiratis, who welcomed the multicultural communities, native food and customs became infused with flavours and spices from around the globe. As the city grew, cooking and entertaining friends at home became an integral ritual in how people bonded with each other. The eccentric selection of recipes in Table Tales illustrates the diverse global nomad cuisine of the city and the universal nature of a dish served with generosity and love.
featured Recipes
EXCERPT
Fattet al Hummus
CHICKPEAS WITH PITA AND TAHINI YOGURT
Fatteh is a traditional Levantine dish consisting of fried or toasted Arabic bread layered with grain, meat, or vegetables and topped with yogurt. There isn’t a direct translation in English for fatteh, which is derived from the Arabic verb fatta, meaning ‘to crumble bread’. There are many variations of the creamy-nutty fattet al hummus in Lebanese, Palestinian, Jordanian, and Syrian kitchens despite the few basic ingredients that make up this dish. Fattet al hummus is a typical weekend breakfast dish for family gatherings.
Gemista me Feta
GREEK STUFFED TOMATOES WITH QUINOA,CAPERS, AND OLIVES
Mediterranean cuisine has included a plethora of stuffed items, from the ancient Greeks, to Romans, Byzantines, medieval Arabs, and the Ottomans. The elaborate stuffing of fish, lamb, and goat was a demonstration of culinary skills, power, and wealth. Travel anywhere in the Mediterranean region today and you will find stuffed meat and vegetables. Greeks and Turks may debate the origin of stuffed dishes, though it is generally believed that the highly elaborate stuffing of vegetables such as vine leaves, zucchini, onions, bell peppers, and eggplant originated with the Ottoman cuisine and spread across the region during the four hundred years of their rule.
Hamam Mahshi bil Freek
FREEKEH-STUFFED SQUAB
Freekeh, an ancient grain and a staple of the Middle Eastern diet for centuries, is made from wheat that is harvested while young and green. It is parched and roasted to burn off the husks. The grain on the inside is too young and moist to burn, so the result is a firm, slightly chewy grain with a distinct flavour that is earthy, nutty, and slightly smoky. Aside from its delicious taste, it is full of nutritional benefits.
Sticky Date Pudding
WITH CARDAMOM SAUCE
Date palms have a special significance in Arabian culture. The date palm is mentioned more than any other fruit-bearing tree in the Quran, and it is known that the Prophet broke his fast with two dates. Among many other benefits, dates were believed to be an antidote to poison, promote good health, and fight diseases whose causes were unknown at the time.
Gahwa Arabia
ARABIC COFFEE
Westerners, whose only experience with Middle Eastern coffee may be the relatively thick Turkish variety served across the Levant and North Africa, are often surprised by how light Emirati coffee is. The coffee beans are lightly roasted, then coarsely ground with cardamom and cloves for fragrance. The grounds are boiled in a large dalleh (coffee pot) and left to brew before serving. The dalleh is considered a prized possession when inherited from family elders. There is an Emirati proverb that says, ‘He who does not have a dalleh cannot be found’. The word for ‘found’ in Arabic sounds similar to ‘dalleh’. So, he who does not have a coffee pot has not received guests, implying that no one would seek him.
